Zărnești

The town where the most spectacular limestone ridge in the Carpathians begins

Few towns in Romania have a neighbour as dramatic as Zărnești. Set on the south-western edge of Țara Bârsei, along the upper course of the Bârsa river and at around 722 metres altitude, the town rests against the foot of the Piatra Craiului Mountains. This is a narrow, jagged ridge, roughly 25 kilometres long, whose highest point, Vârful La Om, reaches 2,238 metres. Some of the most sought-after mountain trails in the country start here, which is why Zărnești is often called "the gateway to Piatra Craiului". The town lies a short distance from Râșnov, where our hub is based, and about 28-35 kilometres from Brașov.

The Zărnești Gorges, the corridor of stone at the edge of town

Just a few kilometres from the centre, the road slips into the Zărnești Gorges, a limestone defile about a kilometre and a half long, where the rock walls sometimes come within a few metres of each other. It is one of the most visited sights in the massif and, at the same time, one of the most accessible: the trail through the gorges is considered easy and can be walked by most visitors. From here the marked paths climb towards Cabana Curmătura, a classic stop for hikers. The entire area is part of the Piatra Craiului National Park, a protected area since 1938, so the rules of conduct in nature must be observed carefully.

A history longer than it first appears

Although today it has the air of a mountain gateway, Zărnești has ancient roots. The settlement is documented as far back as the 14th century, and traces of habitation from the Roman period have been discovered on its territory, among them bricks bearing the stamp of the Legio XIII Gemina. The town's name has remained tied in history to the Battle of Zărnești of 1690, considered the last major Ottoman incursion into Transylvania. From the 19th century onwards, the settlement gradually industrialised, and in 1951 it was officially declared a town.

Libearty, the refuge of rescued bears

On the edge of town lies one of the largest brown bear sanctuaries in the world. Opened in 2005 and run by the Milioane de Prieteni Association, the Libearty sanctuary stretches over some 70 hectares of oak forest and shelters more than 130 bears, rescued over the years from conditions of abusive captivity. Here the animals have forest to climb in, pools to bathe in and food adapted to their needs, and visitors can learn the story of each bear. It is an experience especially suited to families and to those interested in animal protection.

How to plan your visit

Zărnești works best as a starting point: the morning for the mountains, the afternoon for the sanctuary or a stroll through town. The trails in Piatra Craiului vary greatly in difficulty, from gentle walks through the gorges to exposed ridges reserved for the experienced and well-equipped. For the bear sanctuary, for car access to the gorges and for any guided tour, check the schedule and prices on the official source before your visit, as these can change from one season to another.